mybio
On Wednesday, April 12, Will Bosi announced his second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams, V17, calling it a huge step up from any other issue he has done. After repelling several suitors since Hukkataival’s FA in October 2016- including Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Aiden Roberts, Giuliano Cameroni and Toru Nakajima, all of whom have climbed multiple boulders of V16 grade or higher – Burden of Dreams has emerged as one of the more coveted second ascents in climbing history, and Bosi’s climbing progress over the last month has been closely watched.
Will Bosi the burden of dreams
Over the past year, Bosi has compiled a notable tick list on the blog, including three V14 flashes, the first ascent of Honey Badger and the third ascent of Shawn Raboutou’s Alphane. However, the 24 days he spent on The Burden of Dreams – 10 sessions on a 3D scanned replica of the rock at Lattice’s HQ in Sheffield, UK, and 14 sessions on the subject itself – made this is the longest amount of time he has spent on a problem.
Bosi said that this was definitely the biggest challenge he has ever taken on climbing. He added that it took twice as long as Alphane took. His first attempts on real rock went live on March 16 and looked amazing. He almost stuck on the key move the first time and made all five moves in about 25 minutes. However, despite that promising session, he needed another 13 days of climbing before he could string those five movements together. He said that there were definitely a lot of factors that made this rock really difficult to send.
He divided the tip in the second session, then continued to divide it into each of the next four sessions. He tried climbing with duct tape, but the tiny crystal-studded folds required both friction and precision, so the duct tape made the rock much harder. By the time he sent it off, he found that his skin could only tolerate three good tries at a time — with skin-restoring rest days in between. As the sessions dragged on, Bosi became increasingly confident that Burden was a ‘step up from other boulders he had done’. However, as is often the case, when body memory, conditioning, skin and luck finally come together and the rock really isn’t so hard anymore.
As he told 8a.nu, the ascent meant a lot to me because I never thought I would climb a rock like this, I think I learned that I am capable of doing it It’s more than I thought it would be and I’m looking forward to finding my own BoD in the future.
Categories: Trending
Source: Tekmonk Bio, Make Money Blogging
GIPHY App Key not set. Please check settings